August 2025
We landed in Jakarta on the 30th and spent the night at the FM7 Resort Hotel — though “resort” might be a stretch. The room was clean, modern, and spacious, but the breakfast experience was a mixed bag: fantastic food, but chaotic service. Ordering eggs felt like a game of chance. That said, the noodle selection was exceptional — some of the best I’ve had in a long while.
Around noon, we were picked up and driven back to the airport for our Batik Airways flight to Pangkalan Bun. The boarding process was pure confusion: gate changes with no announcements, no signage, and no staff to guide passengers. Classic Southeast Asian airport chaos.
Upon arrival in Borneo, we collected our bags and were greeted by Bobby from the hotel. The Mercure was relatively new, and the rooms were outstanding for the price. After a few drinks in the room (thank you, pre-purchased bourbon), we had dinner at the hotel. It was fine — nothing memorable, but it did the job.
🌿 Day 1: Into the Wild
Sleep was elusive thanks to the 4am mosque broadcast echoing through the town. Breakfast was modest, with limited options. By 9:30am, Fardi’s crew was waiting in the lobby as promised, and we headed to Kumai to board our boat for the three-night river journey.
Our crew consisted of:
- Rudi – the captain
- Ali – boat hand
- Ryan – our sharp-eyed guide
- Eruse – the onboard cook
We cruised upriver for a few hours before reaching our first feeding station. We spotted several orangutans — mostly mothers and young males. The alpha males were conspicuously absent, but their presence was felt; the others kept a wary eye out.
As dusk fell, we enjoyed a delicious dinner onboard. Later, we ventured into the jungle with Ryan, whose ability to spot wildlife was uncanny. We saw: - A tarantula
- Multiple spider species
- Two viper snakes
- A glow-in-the-dark mushroom
- Native birds, including a woodpecker
- A butterfly fluttering through the underbrush
We returned to the boat and slept on the deck under the stars.
🐒 Day 2: Camp Leakey & River Drama
Breakfast was served at 7am, and we continued upriver toward Camp Leakey — a four-hour journey that never felt long. The riverbanks were alive with movement, and we were constantly scanning for wildlife.
We were lucky to witness a troop of Proboscis monkeys preparing to cross the river. One by one, they leapt from the trees and swam across. According to Ryan, they only do this when boats are nearby — the motor noise deters crocodiles. It was a rare sight, even for him.
Further upstream, we entered an estuary where the water shifted from muddy brown to a deep, tea-like hue. The channel narrowed, and the landscape transformed dramatically.
At Camp Leakey, we waited for the 2pm feeding. Orangutans emerged from all directions. We even spotted a Gibbon monkey, lightning-fast through the canopy. He didn’t mingle with the orangutans but was offered fruit by the rangers.
On our walk back, we encountered a large male orangutan on the trail. A nearby ranger was planting trees when the cheeky primate snatched a plastic bag from his gear and bolted into the jungle. Just before this, the skies opened up in a classic tropical downpour. Our shoes were soaked, but Ryan had umbrellas ready for everyone.
That night, we docked and spotted an owl in the trees. The rain continued, and we drifted off to sleep with the rhythmic sound of droplets tapping the deck.
🐾 Day 3: Atlas Appears
We woke to the crew landing a large fish off the back of the boat — a peaceful start to the day. After another great breakfast, we set off for our final full day.
At the next feeding station, we arrived slightly late — which turned out to be perfect timing. The infamous Atlas, a large male orangutan known for his temper, was blocking the path. Rangers arrived with food and coaxed him into the jungle. It was an unforgettable moment.
Nearby, a young male named Surabaya waited patiently in the trees. Fewer orangutans showed up at this station, which Ryan explained was a good sign — it meant the jungle was providing enough food naturally.
We took a short jungle walk where Ryan pointed out unusual plants, then visited a local village. Life there was simple and raw — a stark contrast to our own.
That evening, we docked again and were treated to a magical display of fireflies dancing in the trees.
✈️ Day 4: Farewell to the Forest
I was up by 4am for a quick shower before we began our journey back to port. Breakfast was served as we cruised downriver one last time. We said our goodbyes to the crew and were driven to the airport for our flight to Kuala Lumpur. This will be an adventure to remember forever.
I can highly recommend www.orangutanhouseboattour.com for this fantastic trip.
