Our Japanese adventure began bright and early on a Thursday morning in Tokyo, the city already alive as the sun climbed at 5 AM. After a quick breakfast, we plunged into the vibrant area of Shinjuku, we were eager to witness the famous crossing. While it was smaller than imagined, the surrounding area offered plenty to explore, from souvenir hunting at Don Quijote to enjoying a fantastic coffee. The day unfolded with quintessential Tokyo experiences: delicious noodles and tempura at a local Japanese restaurant, a Zara stop, and a fascinating dive into Takeshita Street, the epicentre of quirky youth fashion. We savoured famous chocolate-dipped strawberries on a stick and found great deals on thermals at Uni-Glo. As evening approached, we sought out Jeremah’s, a hidden speakeasy found ingeniously behind a poster. The expertly crafted cocktails were a highlight, followed by a quirky and delicious sushi dinner where dishes arrived on a conveyor belt. Our night ended with a shared banana custard and Nutella crepe before navigating the tight, bustling alleys of Piss Alley.
Friday brought another early start, and after a quieter breakfast, we bid farewell to our suitcases, entrusting them to Yamamoto for their journey to Kyoto. Our morning was spent in serene reflection at a park shrine, where we were fortunate enough to witness a beautiful wedding ceremony. The afternoon was a mesmerizing immersion into Team Labs, a world of incredible lights and colours, shared with friends Jim and Claudia after a relaxed lunch. We then ascended Tokyo Tower for breathtaking views, capturing countless photos before a somewhat average Japanese dinner back in Shinjuku. The evening culminated in a delightful encounter at Bar Hip in Golden Gai, where conversations with a German couple stretched late into the night.
Saturday marked our departure from Tokyo, a seamless checkout followed by a journey to the colossal Tokyo Station. Navigating the crowds, we found our train to Kyoto, enjoying a bento box lunch en route. From our window seat on the right, we were treated to fleeting glimpses of Mount Fuji as the train whisked us through the countryside. Arriving in rainy Kyoto, we made our way to a beautiful hotel where our pre-shipped bags awaited. The evening unfolded with champagne at the bar and a spectacular dinner, a perfect start to our Kyoto experience.
Sunday’s hotel breakfast offered a delightful change of pace, with ordered meals and attentive staff. We ventured into Gion, the historic old district, and were thrilled to spot a few Geishas before the crowds arrived, capturing the traditional Japanese architecture in its quiet beauty. Souvenir shopping and a traditional Japanese lunch at a temple filled our day, followed by Bron’s discovery of antique Kimmi dolls in the shopping area. Dinner in Kyoto city offered mixed reviews – fantastic asparagus for me, but chewy scallops, while Bron enjoyed Kobe.
Monday in Kyoto began with shipping our bags to Osaka. Our visit to the “Red Gates” (which were surprisingly orange) involved a tiring uphill walk, but a traditional Japanese house and Japan’s oldest meditation temple offered unique cultural insights. A delicious Mos Burger provided a mid-day refuel before we found great dressing gowns at the handicraft center and I acquired a high-quality Japanese knife. The evening’s culinary highlight was a well-worth-it hour-long wait for Okonomiyaki and Soba noodles. The night extended with engaging conversations and cocktails at a bar, sharing cultural stories with two young Chinese girls and the charismatic barman, Rocky.
Tuesday, our last day in Kyoto, transitioned us to Osaka. After a quick train journey and a short walk, we dropped our bags at the hotel and embarked on a shopping spree in Osaka’s vibrant precinct. A quick stop at Lawson provided delicious strawberry pies and gummy sweets. Checking into our compact ninth-floor room, we noted the electronic check-in system. That evening, we discovered Hedonist, a bar with a fantastic bartender, and later enjoyed surprisingly good vegetarian ramen and gyoza from a seemingly dingy place. A late-night crepe capped off our busy day in the bustling city.
Wednesday marked our final full day in Osaka, starting with a regrettable breakfast. After laundry that took ages to dry, we embarked on a trip to Nara, the ancient capital. The highlight was undoubtedly the deer, who eagerly approached for biscuits, and we explored several temples within the park. Another satisfying Mos Burger and some Hawaiian coffee from underground shopping fuelled our return to Osaka. Our evening concluded with a delicious dinner of Okonomiyaki and fried noodles at Tonge, followed by a final, people-filled stroll through Osaka.
Thursday led us to the serene beauty of Hakone/Gora. After an early breakfast, our multi-leg train journey, including a Shinkansen and cable car, brought us to our traditional Japanese Ryokan. Dressed in traditional attire, we were served a sweet treat and matcha tea, setting the stage for an incredible ten-course traditional Japanese dinner served in our room. The gentle rain against the Japanese garden outside our room provided a peaceful backdrop as our Geisha prepared our beds, leading to one of the best sleeps of the trip, despite a mysterious light that refused to turn off.
Friday morning began with the rustling of bamboo outside our window before our Nakai-san folded away the futons and prepared our breakfast table. After a delicious breakfast (Western for me, Japanese for Bron), we began our final leg back to Tokyo. The bullet train journey was uneventful, but navigating the immense and often confusing Tokyo train station proved a challenge. Thankfully, we checked into our hotel early and explored the souvenir shops near Sensō-ji temple. Dinner was a fantastic Okonomiyaki experience, made even better by a waitress who had studied in Melbourne.
Saturday in Tokyo was a cooler, rainy day, leading us to explore the shops near the Sky Tower and enjoy an excellent coffee. We found some of the best sushi I’ve ever tasted in Asakusa. A room change due to a lingering smoke smell was a minor hiccup, but our new non-smoking room was just two floors down. Our afternoon was spent in Ginza, the high-end shopping district, where we picked up some t-shirts at Uniqlo. Our final Tokyo dinner was a decent tempura meal, followed by Bron’s last-minute packing as we prepared to ship our suitcases to the airport.
Sunday, our departure day, started early. After breakfast and dropping off our bags for shipping, we explored Kappabashi Street, a haven for kitchen and knife shops. We found unique souvenirs like a cedar bento box and antique sake cups. Witnessing a lantern parade and enjoying a final, delectable sushi lunch near the crowded Sensō-ji temple rounded out our time. The journey to the airport by limited express train felt long, but collecting our bags and breezing through customs was effortless. Despite a momentary issue with my 28kg bag, we relaxed in the Aspire club lounge before our delayed flight back to Melbourne, where we quickly cleared immigration and collected our duty-free items.
